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Summer sangria can pop with local fruit flavors

July 11, 2020

Hazy lazy, no doubt. For those who are spending more time at home, here’s a brief tutorial on wine from Trentino in the foothills of the Dolomites in Italy. Within are several link tutorials, and some great video and pictures: https://trentodoc.com/en/. Please read the entire paper first. While I’m doing ads, be sure to check out my fellow columnist, friend and bon vivant Bob Yesbek’s new radio show on WGMD Saturday afternoons about 2 p.m. Bob has been interviewing local food and bar folks to good effect. His handle on the local restaurant scene is superb.

I was asked for a Sangria recipe. This weather and the local produce call for a peach Sangria with blueberries. Start with an acid-bright Sauvignon Blanc with tropical fruit and citrus aromas. This profile is typical of New Zealand SBs. The Kim Crawford 2019, 89 McD, is a fine choice under $14, a juicy wine with vibrant acidity. Ripe, tropical fruit flavor with passionfruit, melon, and grapefruit, and a long, clean finish. It goes well with fresh seafood. To continue the Sangria recipe: Combine a 750 ml bottle of wine with ¼ C peach liquor, or puree 1 C peaches (makes the Sangria a bit cloudy), 6 T fresh grapefruit juice, 1/4 C white sugar. Mix thoroughly to incorporate sugar. Chill. Add 1 lb of sweet peaches peeled, pitted and sliced (not too thinly, about 1/2-3/4 inch) and about 1 C of blueberries. Please wash the fruit, then let it dry. I like to taste the liquid prior to chilling. However, first-timers are better served by chilling it because, as discussed here in the past, warmer liquid shows more aroma and elevates one’s perception of sweet and acidity. The Kim Crawford reserve label 2017 is rated 91 McD, $25. The 2018 garnered  87, a mediocre value. Their Small Parcels Spitfire around $20 has been 89 McD since 2014, and the 2018 gets 91, 1 price point, excellent value. Buy a case. This is a wonderful oyster wine and October is rapidly approaching. Whatever you don’t drink this summer will be a happy addition to the fall harvest. A grapefruit, melon, and crisp, minerally acidity choice, but not recommended for the Sangria.  

Crawford sold his eponymous label to Vincour International, a Canadian megacorp. He stayed on until 2007, his wife Erica until 2009. It is now owned by Constellation Brands, an even bigger corporate vacuum. Net to the Crawfords, about $50 mil. Not bad for folks who began making wine in their garage from bought juice. He was replaced by his acolyte Anthony Walkenhorst, who had worked with him since 2005. Apparently he paid attention.

Crawford and his lovely wife Erica are still turning out lovely wine labeled Loveblock. Their Loveblock Pinot Noir Otago is noteworthy. The 2015, ‘17 and ‘19 rate 90 McD points. I was alerted to the 2015 by Wine Spectator when it placed No. 42 in the 2018 top 100. Currently findable at $27, a valuable PN. I think the 2018 is better at $30, rates 92 but could use some cellar time. This also made WS 100 in 2019.

RRs have read my reviews of Cakebread Cellars, but few know the founder’s story. Jack Cakebread got his start in his father’s Oakland car repair business with a sideline of freelance photography, studying with Ansel Adams from 1957 to 1966. In 1972, Jack was hired to come to Napa Valley to help photograph what would become Nathan Chroman’s celebrated coffee table book, “The Treasury of American Wines,” and in 1973 he founded Cakebread Cellars. I never knew freelance photography paid so well. Both Jack’s sons are working the biz. Dennis opened a new winery, named for the first wagon trail to cross the Rockies into Washington state. Mullan Road Cellars Red Blend is a Bordeaux mix of 51 percent Cab Sauvignon and 20 percent Cab Franc, 29 percent Merlot and Malbec. The 2016 spent 18 months in French and American oak. Dark purple-colored, opens to currants, cherries, vanilla, cumin and oak-driven pie spice. On the medium-bodied palate, look for some black tea provided by the smooth tannins. The finish is lovely with chocolate, a hint of green pepper and plum; 91 McD under $46.

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